How to re-grip golf clubs at home

I grew up with a father who was obsessed teasing his golf clubs (you can see how I ended up in my current position now), so lgaining how to change a control in the basement came before I could drive a car.

Re-gripping your golf clubs is fun, easy and gives you complete control over how your clubs feel in your hands. There are no excuses, it’s all up to you.

Unfortunately, all good things must come to an end, and I recently moved to Boston, about 265 miles away from my father’s workshop in Pennsylvania.

But don’t worry, while I won’t immediately buy all the tools I had access to in my dad’s workshop, I can start by easily giving myself a space to get my golf clubs back.

What you need to restore your golf clubs at home

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How to re-grip golf clubs at home

Step 1: Find a space

This is where garages and basements come in handy as places where you won’t be afraid to get a little messy and have a lot of space.

If you can get a workbench to mount your vice, great, but there are also a variety of stands and mounts on the market.

One issue I ran into in my garage is that it gets very cold and it can become difficult to get some checks as they are harder to work with in the cold.

Step 2: Wait for the old check

Like any process, there are many ways to skin a cat, and there are many ways to remove an old hold.

You can try to maintain the old control or by using a dedicated needle and solvent shooter, but this is often tedious and not worth the effort. You can also save the old handle by using an air compressor, inserting it into the handle (we’ll cover this in another article).

But the tried and true method is to use a regular knife and just cut off the old hand. A regular blade – like the one I’m using in the photo – works fine, but it’s best to use a hook blade to avoid any scratches on the non-chrome shafts. I like to do this with my vice club. I won’t remove it until the new handle is installed.

Once you’ve cut the old handle off, you should be able to easily remove it with your hands.

Step 3: Remove the remaining tape

The old tape will usually stay on the shaft and again, there are several ways to do this, but the best way is with heat. Use either a blow torch (quicker), heat gun, or even a hair dryer (safer) to melt the glue.

After using it, you can use either a knife or, preferably, a dedicated tape removal tool (there are many options out there) to remove any remaining tape.

The axle will still be sticky with tape residue, so you’ll need to spray some tack solvent on the axle and wipe it off with a towel. You want your axle to be as clean as new before putting on new tape.

Step 4: Measure and apply new tape

For this step, it may be helpful to place your tape on a stationary spreader. Hold your new glove near the hub and pull out a new strip of tape slightly longer than the new glove.

Remove the back of the tape and then apply it to the end of the shaft with approximately a 1/4 to 1/2 inch overhanging the end of the shaft. I like to apply the tape with one end down the top center of the shaft or place the center of the tape over the center of the shaft and wrap it on both sides. The first puts the tape layer on top while the second puts it on the bottom. It’s a preference thing, but with a shooting glove like I do in the video above, it really doesn’t matter.

Take the end of the taped piece of tape at the top and fold it inside the top of the shaft to completely cover the edge.

Step 5: Discard solvent

Grip solvent works in two ways: as a lubricant to slip on the grip and by temporarily disabling the adhesive on the tape. You’ll want to make sure the entire inside of the glove is coated with solvent.

Put at least 10 pumps of a spray bottle into the handle with one finger over the vent hole in the bottom. Then cover the opening at the top with your thumb and roll the handle around to coat the inside.

Once you feel like the entire inside of the glove is coated, hold the glove upside down over the shaft and remove your finger from the vent hole at the bottom and let the remaining solvent come out onto the strip. A few catches, like Reverse taper with cone in the video, which is a .580″ core diameter, that I am installing on a barrel shaft that is .600″, may need a little extra solvent sprayed onto the shaft. You really can’t use too much; just know the more you use, the longer it will need to dry.

Some grab stations have a tray to drain excess solvent. If you don’t have one, do this over a trash can or sink.

Step 6: Slide it into the handle

Grasp the handle nozzle over the butt end of the shaft and then slide in a continuous motion. This isn’t a problem with most full-rotation gloves, but with larger gloves like hitting gloves, maintaining your momentum is essential. If you stop, you may not be able to get it moving again and will have to start over.

Step 7: Check alignment

For a putter grip, make sure the front paddle is perpendicular to the face of your putter. For a staggered control, decide whether you want the logo up or down. There are usually small markings on the handle to help you line up the entire grip and make sure it’s not twisted.

Some more elaborate grip stations have a reference point to find perpendicular angles.

You can do this initially while the club is still in the grip, but after that, take it off and check the alignment from the playing position to make sure you like it.

Step 8: Make sure the handle is on properly (IMPORTANT!!!)

You probably want to do this before you check the alignment one last time, but turn the club upside down and tap the bottom of the handle firmly into the ground. This ensures that you have full control of the club.

Step 9: Let it dry

Once you’ve made sure the handle is straight and in place, leave it somewhere outside in a bag to dry. Overnight is always best, but it should be ready for play within a few hours, depending on how much solvent you use.

And just like that, you have a brand new handle on your club and hopefully a productive new hobby!

The author welcomes your comments at Jack.Hirsh@golf.com.

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