
You can also make restaurant-quality fish tacos—like these, from Hokuli’a—at home.
Courtesy of Hokuli’a
Welcome to The club eatswhere we celebrate the game’s finest food and drink. Hope you brought your appetite.
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As the final weeks of summer approach, most of us are scrambling to find ways to keep warm and the carefree attitude the season seems to encourage. There’s no easier way to celebrate summer than with warm-weather essentials, and few things scream “sun-splashed summer days” better than fish tacos.
To learn how to make restaurant-quality fish tacos at home, we asked Erik Lobner, executive chef at Hokuliaa 1,260-acre residential community located along the Kona Coast on the island of Hawaii. There, Chef Lobner prepares blackened fish tacos served Baja-style; and as we learned, the dish is easier to replicate at home than you might think.
So what is Baja style, you ask? According to Lobner, it’s the combination of flavors and ingredients that originated in Baja, Mexico — corn tortillas, crunchy slaw, pico de gallo and a flavorful cream sauce. “The key to doing Baja well is having the right amount of spice and citrus to add brightness and flavor to the dish,” he says. “That’s where salsas and dips come in. Adding local lime or citrus elevates the dish and brings that balance, and the spices and seasonings you use will add flavor and contrast to your dish.”
Below we’ve included Chef Lobner’s recipes for pico de gallo, chipotle cream sauce, and tanner spice mix. As for the cooking method, he prefers blackening over the more common deep-frying technique for two main reasons. “The coloring just adds more flavor to the fish when it’s cooked,” he says, though he explains that it also helps keep the protein moist. “Stirring and frying the fish just removes the moisture.”
At Hokuli’a, Chef Lobner often reaches for Mahi Mahi (a common “market catch” at the resort) or Kampachi—two species that are fatty and rich in oil. “I try to avoid fish that are strong or weak,” he says, pointing to ahi tuna, swordfish and walu as three types of fish that are common in the waters surrounding the island. “They dry out more easily or become too hard when cooked.”
After coating the fish with his blackening spice blend, Lobner likes to sear the protein in a broiled skillet over medium heat until the fish reaches an internal temperature of 145 degrees Fahrenheit. Besides making sure you don’t overdo the protein, the most important step in this process for home cooks is to be careful with the seasoning. “Balance is key,” says Chef Lobner, “so be conservative with seasoning and salt. You can always add more if needed, but when you put on too much to begin with, it can be hard to adjust.”
In fact, in Lobner’s estimation, this less-is-more mantra is what makes for delicious fish tacos, period. “Very little is needed,” he says, “when you let the simplicity of your food shine with great ingredients.”
Tanning spice mix
Ingredients:
1 tablespoon. garlic powder (you can add ½ tablespoon for stronger garlic flavor)
1 tablespoon. smoked paprika
1.5 spoons. ground cumin
1.5 spoons. salt (fine)
1 spoon. chili powder
1 spoon. freshly ground black pepper
1 spoon. ground coriander
1 spoon. onion powder
Preparation:
In a small bowl, combine all ingredients and mix until evenly distributed.
Transfer to an airtight container and store in a cool, dry place.
Pico de Gallo
Ingredients:
500 grams of ripe tomatoes (preferably Kamuela), chopped and drained
200 g yellow onion, chopped
60 g of fresh lemon juice
30g cilantro, roughly chopped
5 g kosher salt
4 g dried red chili flakes (a pinch)
Preparation:
In a medium bowl, mix together the onion, lemon juice, cilantro, salt and chilies and let marinate.
Place the crushed tomatoes in a fine-mesh colander and let drain for 5 to 10 minutes.
Once drained, add the tomatoes to the marinated onion mixture and mix well.
Cover and store in the refrigerator.
Chipotle Cream Sauce
Ingredients:
250 g mayonnaise
250 g sour cream
45 g of chipotle in brick sauce
35 g of fresh lemon juice
Preparation:
In a blender, combine the chipotle and lemon juice and blend until smooth.
In a medium bowl, combine mayonnaise and sour sauce.
Once the mayo and sour cream are fully combined, add the chipotle and lime puree and mix well.
Cover and store in the refrigerator.