At Gearhart, an old, beloved links course awaits

As I rounded the final bend of the road to the Gearhart’s Golf Links – Presto! – “Ireland” appeared. A bunch of cool and quirky golf holes that run through the dunes. The historic hotel leads the course. The flagpoles bent and were buffeted by a foul westerly wind howling in from the sea. I hadn’t even set foot on the property and Gearhart had me under his spell.

Contrary to popular belief, Dunat Bandon does not hold the patent for Oregon Coast Authentic Golf Links. (Though with five 18-hole courses, it might be its king.) While ancient Gearhart—a charming little link located roughly six hours north of Bandon near Astoria—may never reach “royal” status, rest assured, it doesn’t want to. It’s not in her DNA. What is it? Basic, old, unadorned and totally loved golf links that will have you ecstatic before you even pull into the parking lot.

But first this disclaimer: Gearhart is NOT some things you might expect. For example, Gearhart is not a big, burly beast like Old Macdonald (perhaps the hardest course in Bandon) or Chambers Bay (site of the 2015 US Open in neighboring Washington). Gearhart is relatively good — just 6,551 yards from the tee — and loaded with short, sweet par-4s where your wedge game will work overtime.

Moreover, the course is narrow, spread over a neat plot of 100 hectares. Adjacent roadways are nearby. The greens are small and that massive scale that characterizes many famous links is not a feature of Gearhart. But sporty, wonderfully rideable and “doable” for the average weekend warrior are trademarks. In an endorsement several years ago, golf legend Peter Jacobson, who has close ties to the region and the course, said, “You can have the best round of the year at Gearhart.” And this is not a stretch. Birds can be numerous. But make no mistake, Gearhart is no pushover.

It’s also not a difficult affair at sea with dramatic ocean views at every turn. The Pacific Ocean, although only a block or so away from the course, cannot actually be seen from the property.

“If we were on the water, our green fee would probably be north of $250,” says Jason Bangild, GM/director of golf at Gearhart. “But we’re in that sweet spot at $100. ($150 in the summer.) We’re the links course for everybody.”

And, not surprisingly, given the place’s fun and trendy vibe, everyone, including non-golfers, seems to want to hang out at Gearhart. The all-welcome Sand Grass – the new halfway house tucked neatly into the dunes near the 9th tee – is definitely a happening place. Live music, on-course competitions and delicious food and drinks are a winning formula there. On weekends, especially, it is full.

IN Hotel Gearhart (34 rooms), which is leased to a third party, McMenamins, the “Irish” atmosphere has a magnetic appeal. Drop by the fireplace and sip a Guinness in the charming little Pot Bunker bar and you might think you’re on some far-flung link in County Mayo. Funnily enough though, Gearhart’s sister course is the spectacular Carne Golf Links in that wild and remote county in western Ireland. Members of both courses have playing privileges on each. (Membership at Gearhart is currently full and has a short waiting list. Tee times for guests and visitors are readily available.)

Like Carne, Gearhart also has a rich history. It is, in fact, the oldest golf course in continuous operation west of the Mississippi River. They’ve been golfing at Gearhart since 1892 – that’s 144 consecutive years.

Originally a three-hole course for guests of the old hotel, Gearhart was expanded to nine holes in 1901 and became an 18-hole layout in 1913. Then, in the early 1930s, local superstar golfer and architect Chandler Egan redesigned the course. For decades, Gearhart was a beautiful park trial with narrow tree-lined streets and a completely different character than it has today. (Gearhart is owned by Tim Boyle, CEO of Columbia Sportswear.)

“In 2013 Gearhart was completely transformed,” says Bangild, who has now been at the club for 13 years. “The trees were dying and nearing the end of their life cycle. Our ownership team decided the best plan going forward was to remove the vast majority of the trees and restore Gearhart as a true, open link. In other words, bring Gearhart back to its roots and give it its true, natural character. It was a game changer for us.”

As you might expect, wild undulations, uneven lies, strong and wicked winds are Gearhart’s main defenses.

“Even on a calm day, you don’t want to underestimate this place,” says Bangild. “The 18th hole plays uphill and into the wind. It’s 640 yards from the back. There are days when strong and handicap players just can’t get there in three shots. It’s actually one of the hardest holes I’ve ever played.”

Thanks to the difficulty of that meaty closing hole, Gearhart has a long tradition of “Feeding the Pig.” Basically, if you put a dollar in the cast iron piggy bank at the pro shop, you entered the lottery.

“Long story short, if you birdie on 18, you win the pot,” says Bangild. “It’s on the honor system. You play the tees you normally play. Every week, or so, someone takes home the bacon.”

While saving a good three swings for the finish is highly recommended, there are other holes that also require powerful and precise play. For example, the 428-yard 12th, which dips down the hill before rising to a small, undulating green protected by bunkers, requires two quality shots. And the 371-yard 14th, which runs through a natural half-pipe, is perhaps the funnest and oddest test on the course, with a green that’s small, elevated and difficult to hold.

By the end of the round, however, given the many “reachable” holes on Gearhart, you’ll likely add up to a number you’ll be quite happy with. I’d say it’s worth something. And, for that matter, so is playing a great “Irish” course in America.

Andrew Penner is a freelance writer and photographer based in Calgary, Alberta. You can follow him on Instagram at @andrewpennerphotography.