
Long handcuffs are some of the most difficult clubs in the bag to hit. Arnold Palmer has some tips that will make their hit a little easier.
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Golf guidance is always developing, but the best advice lies in the test of time. In the new Golf.com series, eternal tips, we are emphasizing some of the biggest tips that teachers and players have shared on the Golf Magazine pages. Today we turn the pages back to our August 1969 number when Arnold Palmer shared his keys to hit long handcuffs. For unlimited access to the Digital Archive of the full Golf magazine, join Indoor tODAY; You will enjoy $ 140 value for only $ 39.99/year.
If you are something like me, Hitting long handcuffs with any kind of consistency It’s a uphill battle. No matter how practice I dedicate to low handcuffs, I never seem to possess the art of their clean stroke. When I find myself struggling with something in Golf, I like to turn to those who make it look simple: the best.
Pros do most things in golf look easy but hit long handcuffs is something I find extremely impressive. As we all know, being able to hit the green from distance is not an easy task.
For help with the task of hitting pure long handcuffs, we are turning to one of the greats of all time, Arnold Palmer. Back in 1969, the king joined Golf To share some of his secrets to hit long pure cuffs. Check below.
Palmer’s keys to hit long pure handcuffs
Most golf players are easily depressed when they constantly fail to leave a good shot with long handcuffs. And I think seeing me remove a ball from a fierce lie with a two -iron can depressed them further! They realize that they can just leave their long handcuffs at home, for all the good they do. Well, it just doesn’t have to be so bad. Long cuffs have a little attic, it’s true, but even an iron has as much attic as the average with three wood. And both and the three-and-and-and-hearte have more proportionate. Also, long cuffs are sticks much shorter than forests, so that they are lighter – no harder – to control.
Most golf players fear to death for a long iron blow before they start. Maybe they have hit a poor blow and think they should make the distance with their long iron. However, they will really do that! The result – one or more of these catastrophic errors:
1. They rush their backs, fail to finish their pivot and get a weak, early shock with all their power well distributed before influence.
2. They try to take a superhuman turn, which results in the lost balance and probably lost time.
3 They release their handle at the top of the swing, which means they have to reopen the downward-an unnecessary and dangerous movement which often throws the club line.
configurations
The way you should play a long iron is just the opposite. Your fastening should be strong, your safe attitude and your shaking just as usual.
I cannot emphasize the importance of a good check. Perhaps the most important element in hitting a long iron comes from a syllable that remains strong from start to finish. Occasionally, you can leave with release in the woods or short cuffs. However, you cannot expect to successfully hit long handcuffs unless you keep it check.
Staying for long cuffs should not be too wide – otherwise you will limit the full body turn so necessary to develop maximum power. I put my feet around the shoulder width and have them in a square position, parallel to the flight line. I stand in front of the ball in a comfortable position, but prepared to return lightly and smoothly.
I position the ball a little more in the middle of my attitude than for my wooden shots. In the woods, you want to hit the ball near the end of the bow. With handcuffs, you need to hit the ball with a falling blow, with the bottom of the bow that is somewhat in front of the ball on your divot. But my shaking remains very much for both forests and handcuffs.
Leakage
The right start is half the battle. The hands begin the action, taking the club straight back from the ball for about 12 inches. Keep your wrists strong, as early breaking of the ankle is suitable to damage your back tranquility, causing the head to move. On the other hand, the back with a piece of body that follows the bullet of the hands-will keep his head in place. There should be no “no ankle fracture until the hands pass the right hip.
Many people ask me, “How far do I have to pick up the club again?” This is a difficult question because it varies from individual to individual. When any further moves makes you free your control, bend your left arm or lose your balance, it’s as far as you should go. Playerdo player must reveal that critical point for himself.
drop
Returning to the ball, I have a certain feeling to pull the club down with my left hand. At the same time, there is a special weight shift on the left side. You need to be able to feel the weight that moves to the left side before you start thinking of hitting the ball. This will prevent rapid connecting of known ankles as “hitting from above”. If you execute this first life movement properly, then in any way, let it fly to the club. Pull with your left hand place you properly so that you can apply power to the right hand in a timely manner – as you enter the hit area.
One of the things I think of during my swinging is, “hitting under the chin”. I turn my left shoulder under the chin on my back. Coming through the ball, I focus on the movement of the right shoulder under the chin. I do not allow my head to move until it is withdrawn from chase. I like to feel that I’m holding right side under the shooting. So much this has become this part of my life that I still have a top left shoulder and a low right shoulder when I get my wife dancing!
shape
Not every stroke I hit with long handcuffs is a simple straight full pace. Sometimes you are stimulated by a tree from hitting directly to green. This calls for hitting a deliberate or slice.
First, let me advise you not to play these shots if you are not a disabled golf player. Too much better to shred on the road and sacrifice a blow than to risk getting into deeper trouble. But if you have a good, repeated pace, these shots should be in your bag.
For deliberate religions, open your posture and swing from the outside. Start the club off the line and bring it back to the ball on the same plane, hitting as much as possible with the left hand. For a blow, do the opposite. Close your stance and start the club again inside the line. In the stroke area, allow your right hand to prevail this stroke. I do not believe in changing the control because you can start using a “blow” or “slice” check when you want a straight kick.
If you can’t go around trouble, what about or under? To play a low kick, I play the ball back to my stay and hold my hands in front of the club throughout the swinging. Make an extra effort to swing smoothly in this, as the tendency is to throw the goal and get only half the ball. Try to stay on your left side throughout the swinging.
Sometimes, you can’t get a full blow in these circumstances. You have to go under the tree, but the green is only 150-170 yards away. Of course, a full three, low iron will hold green. What you do is dip a few inches into the syllable, get a half swinging and hit tightly in the ball with a “working” action, limiting your tracking. This will produce a low trajectory and the desired distance.
In this situation, the distance can be governed by the length of your back and with the amount you kill control. As you become more capable of controlling the club, you will be able to change the length of the stroke.

Zephyr melton
Golfit.com editor
Zephyr Melton is an editor for Golf.com, where he spends his days on the blog, producing and editing. Before joining the team in Golf, he attended the University of Texas followed by stopping with the Texas Golf Association, Team USA, Green Bay Packers and PGA Tour. It helps with all things guidance and covers amateur and women’s golf. He can be reached in zephyr_melton@golf.com.