
While low chip shooting are often the most reliable choice about green, they are not always an option. Sometimes, you will find yourself in the position where you need to hold the ball over a barrier – like water, a bunker or even thick thick – in order to lower it safely to green.
In situations like these, a stroke It is often your best game. However, for many players, it is one of the least comfortable shooting to hit because it can be difficult to execute and control – especially when you are staring at a intimidating danger.
But with some bases, you can learn how to hit these more complicated shots more constantly.
1. Choose the right club
To effectively hit a hook in step, you will need one of your wedges. These high clubs are created to start the ball up and subtract it softly with minimal rotation a combination of attic and bounce.
Which wedge you choose depends on the distance and trajectory of the shot, but as a general rule, I tell my students to use their weaker club for shorter shots, and their lower wedges for longer pits. My quick guide below will help you understand better when using the clubs in your bag:
Lob Wedge (58–60 degrees) – ideal for shorter shots.
Wedge Sand (56 degrees) – great for standard tar.
Gap Wedge (50-52 degrees) – best for longer shots.
Remember, the higher the attic, the higher the ball flight.
2. Use flatulence
The club’s jump refers to the end of curved, where the main edge sits higher from the ground than the crawling edge. This feature allows the club to slide through the ground instead of excavation, which gives you more forgiveness in these high -pressure shots about green.
To set your club face properly – and use swelling – check that the main edge is a little away from the ground.
3. Set the Clubface
One of the most common mistakes that I see players make is setting the Clubface incorrectly to the address. Many players unconsciously close the club, simply because they actually don’t know what a square face looks like a tired wedge.
I often catch myself saying, “The square looks open,” When you learn ancient high shots about green. That’s because, with wedges that have a lot of attic, a proper square club can appear open to the uninhabited eye. Don’t be fooled.
A smart way to ensure that your club is square to address is to use the main advantage as your reference point. The higher the attic, the more faces it may seem crooked or open, when it is actually square.
4. Calibrate your distance
In addition to choosing the club and the attic, the main way to control your distance at these shots is with your back length.
A longer return stores more energy, which results in a faster club and more distance. Many players players underestimate how big a rhythm for tar shots is needed, especially because so much energy is only used to start the ball up.
You can shave shocks from your score by Calibration of your short game. A great way to do this is to mark the carrier distance you get with different swing lengths. And remember, while summary matters, your first advantage should always be cleaning the barrier and subtracting the ball into green.
5. “Hump” on the ground
Most players don’t understand this to hit him High shot, floaty shot This descends gently to green, the club must make contact with the land. And not just a light grass brush – but a special “stroke” that you can hear and feel. This sound is a sign that you are compressing the ball properly and allowing the club attic and dance to do the job.
Resist the instinct to cut or raise the ball in the air. Instead, commit to hitting the soil – both in your practice of practice and during the real stroke.

