I am a great believer in adapting the club, but I am just as big a believer in resetting – arranging the clubs you already own to get a better result.
The reality is that sometimes our changes change, but often those changes are small enough that a simple tweak for your equipment makes more sense than burning it on Earth and starting.
It is also true that sometimes we just go through stages. When this happens, you may simply need a little adjustment to support you until things turn to whatever your “normal” version looks like.
One of the most common issues that players face is the terrible sliced. The cause is unchanged in a mixture of front-way relationships and the location of the impact. It’s all good and (not so) good, but players are likely to be more interested in solutions than the problem itself.
Lessons or a New -driver It may be the best approach, but today, let’s focus on four things you can try to kill your slice with the driver you already have.
This should not be said, but this is the Internet, so…. Think about the suggestions on this list like Leva. Not every driver has the same levers and the power of those levers will vary between models. I can’t guarantee that everything on this list will be applicable to your driver.
Continuing
1. Stand the attic
Adding attic can help fight a slice in two different ways.
First: when adding the attic (taking the sock from neutral to +2 for example), it also closes the face. Generally, most of the place where the ball starts comes from the place where the face is showing, so showing your driver’s face a little more left (for right hand players) will help make the dimming to wrap it not so far.
Second: saving you the technical details about Spin Loft (the relationship between your attack angle and attic delivered to the ball in the influence) as the attic of rotation grows, it becomes harder to curve the ball. Given, in the driver of the driver we are not talking about a great impact, but it can be useful.
2. Tempt the corner of the lie
If your driver has an environment of the angle of lying, consider fixing it to make the club fairer. In the same way as adding the attic, making your angle of lie fairer can help promote a more left -wing line.
3. Throw little weight on the heel
If you have a driver with adjustable weight and that driver offers a heel position, moving the heaviest weight in that location will create a few additional traction bias. Shifting weight to the heel, what you are doing really is to lower the face area that will create what is sometimes called “cut around”.
If your driver offers pre-after-back weight instead of heel-toe, make sure you put the weight in the back position. Not only does the rear placement increase Moi, but, in many cases, the posterior weight position is slightly placed on the front heel.
If not even worth it, you can always try the old school access and add some lead tapes.
4. Shorten your axis
I think most assemblies would agree that today’s stock driver’s length is too long for many people (if not most) players players. Today’s standard is 45.75 inches and many extents closer to 46 when subject to increased control of a ruler.
Cutting the shaft can help you swing the club on the plane and can also improve your ability to square your face on the impact.
Be aware that the shaft cut will reduce the shake weight and while you may prefer the easiest feeling, it also gives you flexibility to add extra weight to the head. This can be through the lead tape, a heavier weight (you can find heavier weights than stock for almost any driver) or having a club builder add hot molten glue inside your head.
While they are counterintors, some players will increase their average distance by a shorter axis because they more often end the center (or closer to the center) of the club.
While I always suggest making a change at a time, you may need to accumulate changes to achieve the desired result (or at least a better result).
A bonus tip: Change the shafts
The science of assembling the shaft is imperfect, but if your ball flight is not what it should be, a new shaft can help. There are no difficult and fast rules, but if you miss you right, try something with a softer section of the handle and/or lower balance points that can help you tove your face. Likewise, slicers sometimes benefit from a shaft with a higher value of torque.
Again, this is in the bonus section because it is strongly dependent on players (and you are likely to have to spend money). I also recommend working with a more convenient (ideally one who is ready to reset).
What I ran above are the most likely result, but it is certainly far from the impossible that the opposite of everything I have said about the axis may be the thing that works for you.
Be realistic
While some or all of the above may work to correct your slices, this reaches the treatment of the symptom rather than the root cause. There is nothing wrong with this and I encourage you to do everything that is comfortable and helps you get more fun from the game. However, if you are ruined by a chronic slice, I strongly recommend working with a qualified teacher in your area.
If you decide it’s time for a new driver I would also suggest working with a qualified.
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office 4 ways to fix a slice with the driver you already have first appeared in MygolfSSS.
