3 golf equipment errors make amateurs – and how to avoid them

Putting your golf bag for success in difficult days is just as important as it is in your best days, that’s why it’s important to Avoid some gear errors in your bag and during a mounting.

You may have a club you love, but it turns out that it’s not really the best thing for you. This also means that the club or clubs you hit away can be those who keep you shoot your best results.

That is why it is important to check your ego at the door when you go to a suitable club or when You are setting up your golf bag If you really want to reduce your results.

Here are three of the most common errors of the equipment we see and what you can do to avoid them.

1. Prioritization of distance over control with handcuffs

As many players have noticed, the Iron Lofts have strengthened and stronger over the years. While Tiger Woods still plays a 49-degree wedge-a more common configuration from the 80s, 90s and earlier-upstreaming and improving the game of many players come with deceived wedge between 42 and 45 degrees.

This can be great for some players, given the high -start technology in some of those handcuffs. But it doesn’t work for everyone and There is a reason that many Pro use weaker handcuffs.

“Most customers, if they fit, they are adapting to an indoor environment, hitting on a screen and the main parameters they are watching is the ball speed and total distance,” said the head of Clubtest and Gear Data Cris McCormack, previously VP Tour and Education in Truespec Golf. “We know that it is achieved by stronger, and typically, resulting in lower rotation, the shallow height of the monkeys, the shallow landing angles. So you are taking the distance, but you are sacrificing the control that comes in green.”

What is the intention of being able to hit a 7-and-order of 180 Oborre if you can’t stop the ball in green?

McCormack said you need to look for a set of handcuffs that allow you to get the ball high enough (at least 80 meters in the air for a speed of 80 km per stone) with a landing angle above 45 degrees so that you can lower your ball and get it stay there.

2. Sacrifice of the yard with your driver

There is a similar effect that occurs with your driver.

If you want the fastest speed of the ball, well, then just discard your driver’s attic. This can produce the longest shooting if you are playing in dry links in conditions of land where Ball can run foreverBut as McCormack points out, the conditions when our ball lands are always changing.

You can have a 9 -degree driver head that leads you to the ball speed 150 km per hour. But if your peak height is only 70 meters, this will not optimize your transfer distance, which would lead to more distance on average.

However, if you get a weaker driver who gets the top ball in the air – even if it costs you 1 to 2 mphs of the ball – you will keep it farther and you will hit longer discs more often.

3 to have numerous clubs going in the same yard

Many amateurs are better with a 4-tree or a 5-dru as their longest behind the driver’s club simply because, at a slower speed, they can hit a 3-light farther.

“If they run the 220 yards in the air and the average club speed hangs in the mid-90s, a 3-dru away from the deck carries 210 yards, but when you see a 5-dru now all five wood carries 212,” McCormack said. “Why? Because it hits the ball above with more rotation. “

3-Duri may end up even further because it rolls farther, but this will not apply if the ball lands in approximately or on a hill.

That is why it is best to overcome the right fit and make sure you have 5 MPH of the ball speed with each club.

This goes throughout the bag. If you cannot hit a 4-hekuri at least 5 mph faster than 5-hekuri, then it’s time to get rid of 4-erak and consider options like a 4-hybrid or even a wood to fill the gap properly.

Want to fix your bag for 2025? Find a location adapted to the club near you in real golf.

“>>